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Supplying designer engagement rings to over sixty high end stockists in the UK and Eire there is one recurring challenge which I hear from some of the staff; and that is when a customer compares the price of a similar article from a high street jeweller or a budget ecommerce site.


prong settingThe way a gemstone is set into a ring, or any other piece of jewellery for that matter, is what makes it look good. There is a whole cabinet full of different settings and the most frequently used are described below.

A claw setting (sometimes called a prong setting) is the traditional setting for a solitaire engagement ring because it shows a single stone off to perfection. Plenty of support, but not enough metal to hide the light of your carefully chosen stone under a bushel!

In a flush setting the stones are embedded into the metal. This is a safer setting in terms of everyday wear, and a good one for wedding rings. This is an understated and elegant setting rather than one filled with Hollywood glitz and glamour.

The bezel setting is a very popular setting and the first type of setting most jewellery designers master. A band of precious metal wraps around the lower part of the stone, which is held above the ring so that it can catch the light from underneath. Remember, more light entering the stone, the more brilliance flashing from it!

Channel settings hold the stones in clean lines, flush with the rings surface. Very protective for diamonds because they don’t protrude to be knocked and scratched. Channel set diamonds are very stylish; channel set princess diamonds are a real winner.

A pavé setting is very good to look at. Gemstones for a pave setting must be perfectly matched for quality and size because they are set almost like paving stones (hence the name). You know yourself that if paving stones aren’t exactly matched the result is lumps and bumps – the last think you want on a ring. When done well, this is a knockout of a setting, just think; you’re creating the equivalent of a paved street of diamonds for your client to wear on her finger! This setting requires skill and patience from the jeweller and you must charge for that level of craftsmanship. Don’t undersell your skills!

Finally, what about a cluster setting, the name of the setting where tiny stones are arranged in shapes, mostly organic such as leaves and flowers, but abstract too. Cluster settings can be single or multilevel. For those who are looking for pretty, floral designs, this is the one to suggest.


Pearls come in a huge range of shapes, sizes and colours. Here we look at how these variations come about to help you find what you’re looking for when buying pearls.

The chart below describes piercing saw blades from size 8/0 (pronounced 8 aught) through to size 8:


When is white gold not white gold?

When a consumer walks into a shop to buy an item of gold jewellery, if it is yellow or red then by checking the hallmark (if buying in the UK) they can tell at a glance, with the aid of a loupe, if it is 9K or 18K for example - the colour is fairly obvious. White gold is another story. Yes they can check the caratage just as easily, but what about the colour? Are they looking at the actual gold alloy or is a thin plating of Rhodium disguising the metal beneath?

First a few facts.

24 carat gold is yellow.

White gold is produced by adding a careful selection of white metals that 'bleach' yellow gold. Strong bleaching metals are palladium, nickel and platinum. Moderate bleaching white metals are silver and zinc.
This tends to historically produce two classes of white gold, nickel alloys and palladium alloys. The Nickel used to alloy white gold can cause an allergic reaction and is not used in many countries.

Because of the price of palladium, the palladium whites are the most expensive but also the whiter alloys.

Many low grade commercial white gold alloys do not produce an acceptable level of whiteness to the consumer, therefore it has become common practice for manufacturers to rhodium plate items of jewellery to give the nice 'ice white' colour that is associated with white gold.

Rhodium is a member of the Platinum family and a thin electroplated deposit is applied to the surface of the majority of white gold jewellery sold in retail outlets to enhance its appearance.

Many customers are confused by white gold and do not necessarily understand what they are buying when they buy an item of white gold jewellery.

When buying white gold jewellery here are a few questions that it may be advisable to ask:

1. Is it Rhodium plated?

2. How long will it be before the rhodium plating will wear off?

3. How white is the gold underneath the plating compared to the Rhodium and will it reveal yellowy brown patches as it wears?

The term 'white' when applied to gold does not, at the time of writing, have any official industry standard guidelines, therefore retailers and manufacturers are placed in a difficult legal position when a customer brings back an item of jewellery that has worn to its natural colour and complains.

A growing number of companies believe that high quality, un-rhodium plated 18K white gold is a naturally beautiful colour metal and are keen to encourage the acceptance of it. It blends in nicely with Titanium products and eliminates the disappointment experienced by people when their white gold ring starts to change colour when worn over a period of time.

Don't hide it - Keep it Naked !!

Article Author: Alan Hadley

GETi are the UK's leading brand of Titanium rings, hand crafted in the UK. www.geti.cc